Jan 22nd - 28th - Zanzibar (Spice Islands), Tanzania

Now time to recover!  We took a prop plane the short distance from the mainland of Tanzania to the Spice Islands: Zanzibar.  Zanzibar is still part of Tanzania, yet subtly different.  The most noticeable difference being the dominant religion.  On the mainland Christianity was prominent - for example the small buses that provide the public transport are typically painted with Christian slogans and messages.  In Zanzibar the majority of the women wore head coverings suggesting they were Muslim.  On the mainland there were many more pubs and bars; far fewer in Zanzibar.

Tanzania is not a wealthy country.  Main streets are paved, but side streets are still dirt tracks.  Sidewalks seem a luxury.  Along the road we saw single story breeze block homes topped with a patchwork of corrugated metal.  They did not have running water; water is sourced from a central point and carried by the women in plastic buckets on their heads.  However, market stalls were well stocked with a wide variety of food.  It was not uncommon to see children running around shoeless. Yet the people we met were all extremely friendly and helpful.  Of course we were meeting those working in the hospitality industry. They were all so happy to have visitors.  Covid has had a major impact on tourism in Tanzania; life is not easy to start with, then with no tourists things get even tougher.  Our hotel in Zanzibar of 127 rooms probably had an occupancy rate of 10%.  We never felt unsafe, but the hotels were generally surrounded with a wall and a security gate.

The hotel was about a 90 minute drive from the airport on the northern tip of the island. The plan was to relax for five days, which is what we did!  One curious thing we noticed in Zanzibar was whenever we got into a taxi the driver would make a stop at a nearby gas station. Everytime. Not too sure why, but it happened on every trip.

The hotel was on the coast, but the 'beach' was shallow so when the tide was high it came up to the rocky cliff edge, then would go out exposing volcanic rock for several hundred feet.  It was very beautiful, but not for those who like sand.

Swahili and English are both spoken in Tanzania which makes life easier since signs are in English. On our last morning we took a Swahili cooking class.  Surrounded by jars of all varieties of spices (we are in Zanzibar!) and herbs we were instructed on making octopus curry, chicken curry, spinach, beef samosas, and rice, then feasted on our creations.

Our plans were to travel east, but due to covid travel issues, we decided to return to London.  I have to confess to being excited to have access to a washing machine again.  Tanzania was very different, poor, yet Tanzania has banned single use plastic bags.  So, despite being underdeveloped, it is doing its part to help the world.  Now that is impressive.

Jan 14th - 22nd - Reaching the roof of Africa (Kilimanjaro, Tanzania)

OMG...toughest physical challenge of our lives.  We flew into Tanzania, just south of the equator in Africa with the goal of climbing the world's tallest freestanding mountain - Kilimanjaro at 19,341 feet (5,895m).  When we set off from the US this had not been part of the plan so we needed to rent some equipment such as sleeping bags, daypacks, water bladders, plus a whole load of other items.  Sourcing said equipment was straightforward with payment conveniently accepted in US dollars (local currency is the Tanzanian shilling. With about 2300 shillings to one dollar it makes calculating prices a little tricky!)

 

After much deliberation we chose to go with Climb Kili on their 8 day Lemosho route. What a great decision it turned out to be. Our four fellow climbers were all from the States, from various walks of life, making for a diverse team.  The local guides and porters were outstanding. It was very humbling to watch them cover the same terrain with footwear covering the gamut of slides to hiking boots in clothing that also made one appreciate easy access to REI, and money to afford the convenience of Amazon. The porters and guides are the real stars of the show; working with such grace and humor. Their clients' (us) wellbeing and success paramount.  GoodLuck was our main guide who ensured we were properly briefed and ready for each day's hike.

On the mountain one lost all sense of date/day of the week with days referred to as 'day 2', or 'day 5'.  Time was all relative to mealtimes which, again, were outstanding. Somehow a magnificent, hot feast was presented three times a day in the mess tent, plus freshly popped popcorn mid afternoon. Lunches and dinners would be three course affairs with no dish repeated: from pizza to empanadas to fried chicken. Fresh fruit and a wide variety of fresh vegetables fueled us with the right nutrition for success.

Our journey started at the Londorossi Gate (approx 9,100 feet) so immediately one felt the affect of altitude and even walking at a 'normal' pace caused shortness of breath.  The first Swahili I learnt was 'pole pole' which means 'slowly, slowly'.  Essential advice if one is to make it to the top.

From the very start of the trip there was no denying you were in Africa. Initially the trail took us through rainforest where monkeys (we saw two different species) were spotted swinging through the trees. We had already seen giraffe and zebra, plus a Maasai tribe on the move during the drive from the hotel in Arusha to the park entrance. We saw stunning proteas and an array of other delicate and beautiful flowers. I was happy that the rain held off.  On day two we moved through different terrain - savannah with tall grasses and volcanic rock covered in lichens, and into the dry, rocky landscape of the desert plateau.  It got a lot colder.  Birds were frequent visitors to the campground, as was a dik-dik (yes, that is what it is called) which is a mammal looking a bit like a cross between a fox and a deer. From the campsite on day 2 we saw the first view of the summit, and it was a long way off.

By now our group was really getting to know one another and everyone got along. Conversation was constant as we learned about each other.  Plenty of team banter and joking around ensured we quickly became a cohesive unit. Days would start with a 6am wake up knock on the tent and a steaming cup of tea or coffee. By 7:30am we were on the trail after the hot and plentiful breakfast.  As we hiked with our daypacks, porters broke down camp, carried it on their backs/heads/hands, and raced over to the next campsite to set it up again ready for us to arrive.  This included the sitting toilet tent!  Campgrounds did have a wooden structure with squat toilets, but as you might imagine, these were pretty nasty.

Most days were morning only hikes of about four hours finishing up at that night's campsite.  A hot lunch would be served promptly on arrival, after which we rested until popcorn time, followed a couple of hours later by dinner.  However, one afternoon we had an acclimatization hike to Lava Tower, then back down to the campsite passing some quite incredible trees (giant groundsel trees).  It was 'other worldly'. The next morning, day five, brought bouldering - scrambling the Barranco wall, passing 'kissing rock' (don't look down) and entering the arctic zone.

We had been fortunate with the weather, light rain and sleet as we traversed the mountain's cloud level, but when we reached the campsite on day six it was super windy on this exposed ridge.  Again the porters were the stars of the show setting up our tents so we could rest in preparation of summit day.

Every evening GoodLuck measured our blood oxygen levels and heart rate - monitoring us to ensure we were going to be capable of making it to the top.  Everyday each of us was declared 'good'. On the eve of summit day we were briefed with what to wear and what to do.

Summit day! Woken up at midnight with a hot drink and cookies called 'Yummy'! Packed up our gear and hiked out at 1am. It was dark and cold although soon enough the body warmed climbing the steep cliff. At this point I was ready to stop. It was hard. Oxygen in the air becomes less and less the higher you get; fatigue sets in quickly.  Slowly, slowly (pole pole) we ascend.  Once warm, now not, you just keep putting one foot in front of the other.  The mind goes blank, just put one foot in front of the other. Until about six hours later the spirit was lifted with the sight of the first rays of sunshine lighting up the sky.  Then Stella Point - almost there. Somewhere from their packs the guides were serving us a cup of hot ginger tea (just in case we are feeling some level of nausea - very common).  Looking down the mountain I see a trail of small lights - the headlamps of all those other climbers also attempting to reach the roof of Africa today.  I feel their pain and am glad to be at Stella Point, and not where they are. With freezing temperatures we do not linger long.  Just 45 minutes more we are told, but this will be easy, we are told. And so on we move to conquer the summit - Uhuru Peak.  The snow is soft and deep, pole pole. Coming down, passing as if running, are those climbers who have already made it to the top and are now descending. I am jealous. Pole pole. And there it is, clear as day, the wooden frame displaying the words 'Mount Kilimanjaro, Congratulations'.  Just as we reach it the mist comes in and clouds form.  Quick photo and turn around.  The cold is biting - I only just notice that my hair is ice; ice covers everything in fact.  Water bladders froze long ago.

Not much to see due to the weather although the glaciers on top were stunning, but apparently only two of the six remain due to climate change.

The way down, now traveled in daylight, seemed even longer than the upward journey.  The scree is slippery as we descend.  We are still covered in ice when we reach camp.  At camp the porters welcomed us back with singing and dancing, and of course - a hearty breakfast. GoodLuck had told us not to rest here, to trust him, and continue to the next campsite, "it will be better" he said.  Wisely he did not mention that to reach the next camp would take another four or five hours of hiking.  If he had, I am sure there would have been a mutiny.

And so we began our continued descent in good spirits, slowly absorbing the fact that we had actually made it to the summit. Then the rain came. It didn't stop. The path down was long, and became stoney.  Wet, slippery rocks, tired bodies, and ever dampening spirits do not mix well. But down we went eventually we reaching the final campground. We crawled into damp tents with wet gear and lay there, exhausted.

It's a good job we had a cook who never gives up.  Hot food and the prospect of just a few more hours hiking the next day gradually lifted the mood until bedtime.

Day 8: the final day. We pack up our still wet and muddy gear for the final descent. Despite now being back in the tropical rainforest the weather cooperates and we walk out of the park in sunshine.

What an incredible journey.  Achievable, but challenging.

Possible with the support of the best group of fellow hikers:

Tommy - the long haired gardener from Oregon who base-jumps despite being afraid of heights and lives life to the fullest

John - the sky-diving guy from Florida who climbs cell towers for a living finally fulfilling his 15yr long dream to summit Kili

Hunter - the young man of 26yrs who is wise beyond his years, a deep thinker, and incredibly knowledgeable who seems to have done so much in such a short lifetime

Brian - the athletic, adventurous nurse from San Diego with a brilliant smile that lights up any room whose hair is never out of place (how does he manage that?)

Paul - without his encouragement I would never have had this adventure

Thank you

With time to reflect these are my take-aways:

1) People and your relationships are what matter.  Without the camaraderie of the group I am not sure I could have done this

2) It is truly humbling to know that the real heroes are the porters and guides who also suffer from the same affects of altitude yet continue to work extraordinarily hard so we, the clients, succeed. They have very little hiking equipment/clothing, and yet remain positive with an ever ready 'jambo' (hello), huge smile, and words of encouragement

3) A week unplugged is wonderful.  Without the internet it was so refreshing to actually live in the moment and have face to face conversations. Time measured only by mealtimes and sunlight

4) Dreams get very vivid at higher altitudes!

 

 

 

 

Jan 3rd - Jan 13th - Doha, Qatar

We were excited to travel to Qatar with Paul's mother Pat.  Pat had worked in Doha between 1982 and 1986, and apparently a lot had changed!  What Pat called a small city that you knew your way around is now a modern metropolis of dramatic skyscrapers, modern malls, and road works!  Even the old souq (market area) has been refurbished into a clean and charming district with pristine public restrooms aplenty.

Traveling from England meant we had to spend the first two nights in a quarantine hotel.  It was actually quite fun as fortunately we had two large connecting rooms so were able to get together to play cards when not eating or walking our daily 10,000 steps.  Notwithstanding, it was great to be 'free'.  Road works everywhere as Qatar races to be finished for the 2022 FIFA World Cup she is hosting later this year.  Despite the controversy, Qatar has made impressive progress preparing for this huge tournament with new stadiums, accommodation, and roadways.  The roadway improvements are everywhere making walking around rather challenging.

 

We began in the older part of the city, the Souq Waqif.  The original souq area has been abandoned and rebuilt in traditional style with modern pavements and public restrooms; coffee shops and restaurants. Near to our hotel was a Falcon Hospital and field of camels so the roots of the culture were very present. The Museum of Qatar is an excellent source of information and helped me appreciate this unique country.

  

Our next area to explore was not here when Pat lived here - West Bay.  It is an extensive area of modern skyscrapers (and more road works) and upscale shopping malls.  The only building that existed was The Sheraton hotel.  For nostalgic reasons we decided to stay at the Sheraton - set in lush landscaped gardens with beach and pool areas to relax. It was a good choice given the intense urbanization now surrounding it.

No visit to the Middle East would be complete without visiting the sand dunes.....wow....a lot of sand! Some Qataris still spend their winters in camps in the desert (albeit now with modern conveniences).

 

An even more recent addition to Doha is an area called 'The Pearl'.  Reclaimed land, named after Qatar's original natural resource (now the economy is based on oil).  This area oozes wealth.  Marinas packed full of luxury boats, housing that would be quite at home in Europe or the States.

Our next stop - Tanzania, and yet another required PCR test.  The crisis of testing is the world over.  We took a cab to a drive through testing site, six hours in the car in line to be told we needed a Qatar cell phone (which we don't have) in order to receive the results; our driver saved the day (allowing us to use his). Swabbed and thankfully our negative results were returned in time.

It has been a fascinating trip and one made even more special being able to revisit Pat's home for four years (even if it looks nothing like it anymore!)