Oct 23rd - Nov 2nd - Camino de Santiago 

Day 1 - Porto to Leca de Palmeira (9km)

And so we start the El Camino (bags packed for the bag carrying service - which is the best 6 euros per day spent!)  Headed out of Porto following first the river and then the coast (following the Portuguese Coastal Route).  Easy walking along the boardwalks.  Plenty of surfers braving the waves of the Atlantic Ocean.  We passed a dock where perhaps someone's long awaited items are held up!

Day 2 - To Vila Do Conde (14km)

Another easy walk along the coast.  Passing a number of people who seem to be walking the El Camino too.  Not hard to find the path since it simply follows the coast.

Day 3 - To Barcelos (31km)

Cutting cross country to transfer onto the Portuguese Central Route.  This was a change of scenery to rural Portugal. Fewer people on the trail (which is mainly paved on country roads) passing through many villages.  The El Camino is based on historical Roman roads, so I guess it should not be a surprise that over the years, these pathways became more permanent.  Signage is excellent.  When we do happen across another person we are generally greeted with a "Buen Camino".  Finally we reach our destination, Barcelos.  Barcelos is a large town with again, more beautiful buildings.

Day 4 - To Ponte de Lima (34km but we cheated a took an Uber part way!)

After the long hike yesterday, and with the prospect of 34km to reach our next stop at Ponte de Lima, we decided to take an Uber part of the way.  The driver informed us that at this time of year it is usually torrential rain and wind, so we are feeling grateful for the continued glorious weather.  Our day was another day hiking through beautiful agricultural fields and villages.  Fewer fellow travelers today, and virtually no cafes.

And then we reached Ponte de Lima.  Portugal's oldest town.  What a hidden gem!

Day 5 - To Rubiaes (19km but uphill!)

Not a soul on the trail today.  We spotted the occasional farmer tending to his vines.  A noticeable transition from small fields of various arable crops with perimeters planted with vines, to small vineyards.  The trail took us uphill through a heavily wooded area, and an even more severe shortage of local cafes for a convenient coffee or beer!

Day 6 - To Tui (Spain) (20km)

                                                Halfway!

A more autumnal feel in the air today, with a distinct change of color in the foliage.  The owner of the hostel we stayed at last night explained that it is the end of the season and we were his last guests for the year.  This would explain the closed cafes and lack of fellow hikers!  In the mist we descended through woods, and villages (with more tractors than cars on the roads) and passed the halfway point to reach Valenca - the last town in Portugal on our route before walking over a bridge into Spain.

And just like that - Spain - no passport control, no PCR tests, no proof of vaccination (this only applies if you walk over the border). Only thing to do is adjust one's watch one hour ahead.

Day 7 - To Redondela (30km)

Last night we heard what the Uber driver had mentioned...torrential rain.  Ugh!  We left early when it was still dark to get as much walking completed before the next downpour.  Tui itself was very charming as we saw young children heading to school dressed for Halloween.  The route was again mainly through villages, forests, and towns.  The difference being how incredibly precise the Spanish route markers are about how much further to go still!  (In Portugal they just had arrows, occasionally including a very approximate estimate of kilometers remaining.)

L-R: the sign in Portugal - approx km; Spanish sign (down to nearest 100th of a kilometer!)

Day 8 - To Pontevedra (22km)

Maybe because it was a Saturday, but there were significantly more hikers.  Many carrying their packs (didn't they hear that you don't have to do that!).  We lucked out and it remained dry, and found a great cafe to enjoy some much needed refreshment.  The landscape was not too dissimilar to that of Portugal, just with fewer tractors.  Our accommodation was fitting for Halloween weekend.

Day 9 - To Caldas de Reis (21km)

We started out early (and in daylight due to the clocks falling back overnight), and walked with purpose because the forecast was for rain later in the day.  

But where did all these hikers and cyclists come from?  By far the most walkers and bikers we have seen in all the days combined.

Fortunately we made it to our destination (with only slight precipitation) where we enjoyed the best coffee we have had for quite some time.

Day 10 - to Padron (22km)

No rush to get out this morning (did I mention the delicious coffee at this hotel?) since there was no rain in the forecast for the whole day.  Our route took us through more forested areas, but we did happen across a handy bar - apparently we were not the first to visit it on our way to Santiago de Compostela.

We discovered what may account for the many more hikers and bikers this weekend.  Today, Monday November 1st is All Saints Day, a national holiday in Spain.  It seems everyone is out enjoying the long weekend.

And a well earned meal.

Day 11 - Final stage to Santiago de Compostela (23km)

Worst day! The route was not as charming as in the previous days, but perhaps the weather played into that too.  Even the very nice El Camino trail markers ceased, replaced by spray painted arrows directing us in the final stage, in the wind and rain, to the great cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.  Julie's boots from REI never got worn in, so her feet are so happy that we have finished.